-  Vanni steadily rising from the ashes! - By K.Mylvaganam

I have just returned after being in Vanni for four months. I have come back with mixed feelings. I am overjoyed by noting the positive changes and the peaceful atmosphere that is prevailing there but sad enough in noting the dreadful poverty prevailing among the people in Vanni. Since I had lot of time to move closely with people from all walks of life I was able to feel the pulse of varied type of people both living there permanently and those who visit Vanni on business.

To start with the positive changes I may point out the proper place the working class has been given in Vanni. There may be two reasons for it. One is that there is a grave shortage for the work force. It is extremely difficult to get someone even to do an odd job at home. For example I was trying to get our barbed wire fence repaired. It took me two weeks of waiting before two young men to do that job for me. This applies to all type of work. A severe shortage for work force is prevailing there. This includes not only manual labour but also all categories of workers like masons, carpenters, engineers, doctors, managers, teachers etc. etc. The other reason for the respect given to workers is the attitude of the management existing in Vanni. Irrespective of whether the person is a manual worker or a technically qualified person they are treated alike. The police talk to you politely, the officers in government institutions are, receptive, respectful and nice to you. The people in general are also friendly to each other. The shops have their shelves filled. Only petrol is in short supply due to the restricted supply from the south. Hence most of the vehicles either run on petrol or on duel fuel - mixture of Petrol and Kerosene. Lot of building activities are going on. The consumption rate has gone up since I was there a year back.

The other reason is the way it is managed. There is no corruption even in the lowest ranks. To give an example my wife and I went into a hotel - Seran - for lunch. The girl who waited on us politely turned down the tip offered by me. This applies to all works of life in Vanni. The police for example are very polite and courteous but they are strict in their own way. You had it even if you talk about bribery. So don't get ideas if you were to get caught even for speeding.

One day I seem to have driven my vehicle at 45 km.p.h where the speed limit is 40. The police officer gave me a ticket for Rs.250.00. But he did it with an apologetic smile on his face and I did not grudge in paying that fine because I was impressed with his attitude and behaviour though it was annoying I admit. There is fair play and justice in every field. The judiciary is functioning exceptionally well. They celebrated their tenth anniversary of the judicial system on 14.09.03. There is no partiality shown to any one. The cases are heard in open court except in certain sensitive cases like a divorce case. Even there the parties are first heard in the chamber and given a stipulated time to think it over. Even if one of the parties insisted for the case to be heard in an open court then it is allowed as requested. I shall write more about it in my next insertion.

Plenty of new shops have come up. For example there were only two small tea kiosks in the vicinity of the Murugandy Temple twenty-five years back. But I was surprised to note that there exist nearly thirty shops now. Even the local co-operative society has put up one. Their plain tea that cost me Rs.3.00 was exceptionally good. Further, parking of vehicles became such a big problem, that the police have marked out special places for parking the vehicles. The town of Kilinochchi too is heavily packed with vehicles. Motor cycles are plenty. One has to be extra cautious while crossing the road.

The negative side of the situation in Vanni is the manner in which the vehicles are driven. The drivers have no civic sense and they will not hesitate to over take you if they find some space on the wrong side even. A motorcyclist darting out of a side lane on to the main road is a normal occurrence. I spent more time on the horn and brakes than on the accelerator. Pedestrians have no respect for the traffic either. If someone wants to cross a road he or she will simply cross over without paying any heed to the on coming vehicle.

Such an incident happened to me too once. A man in his twenties walked coolly right across the vehicle I was driving. I had to stand on my brakes and sound my horn. When my vehicle pulled by his side I asked him "do you want to commit suicide"? To this he just smiled and walked away. I started to wonder why our people are behaving like the way they do now. Those days we showed a lot of respect for the traffic and practised great amount of road courtesy.

I felt that there exists the "Law of the Jungle". I posed this question to a senior police inspector.

He said "Aiyah for the past two decades the people in Vanni have got used to living in a "vehicle free" atmosphere. Due to the severe embargo on fuel, imposed by the government of Sri Lanka there was hardly any vehicle on the road. The tractors too were garaged and the bulls replaced them. Now suddenly there is an influx of vehicles and the people are finding it difficult in getting used to this sudden change. So we have to give them the time necessary for them to get used to it. And that is why we imposed the speed limit to 30 km/hr which has since been increased to 40 km/hr". Then only it dawned on me that, we the Tamil Diaspora who are used to the fast lanes, motor ways, traffic signals, pedestrian crossings etc. expect miracles to happen in Vanni. It is not them but we have to be patient until they get acclimatised to the changing environment.

New hotels, restaurants and lodges have propped up. Many more are being constructed. The A-9 Lodge had only lodging facility when I visited Vanni in September last year. I wrote about it in my article "Trip to Vanni Part I". Now they have introduced a top class restaurant by its side. When I visited it one evening with a friend of mine I was really bewildered at its layout and its looks. There is a beautiful fountain, well lit, in the centre with a rocky touch in it. It is surrounded with small round shaped huts. It reminded me of the holiday sites in the Spanish and Hawaiian Islands. One could order any western or Indian food and while waiting for it order either an appetiser or sip an icy cold beer - or both if you are game for it.

Since it is in the open you also enjoy the cool breeze and they do not levy any charge for it. I would suggest you go slow or rather very slow on the beer and the appetiser as the food is specially being cooked for you on your order and it takes time - a lot of time. Unless you look out you will be too drunk to eat the food that gets served at last.

I will strongly recommend to anyone a voyage to Kilinochchi. I can assure you that you will not regret it. You should take your family with you. The children are sure to enjoy it. But book your hotel room well in advance. I will give more and detailed information about it in my next article. Bon Voyage. Section II of Part III will follow soon.

In my earlier insertion on the above subject I mentioned the development works taking place in Vanni. The worst affected areas are the roads in Vanni. All most all the roads are made of gravel except the main Kandy road that is now referred to as the A-9 road. That too was completely in the ruins when I drove into Kilinochchi in May 2003. It was filled with potholes and ditches. This road however was supposed to be done up by the Sri Lankan government right up to Jaffna. The contract is given to ten different companies in order to get the work completed as early as possible. I was made to understand that the entire work is to be completed before the 31st Dec.2003. But I doubt that they will reach this target. Even the patch of road between Murugandy and Kilinochchi was still incomplete when I left Vanni at the end of September. The portion of the road between Paranthan and Elephant Pass is still not laid as yet. Strips beyond Elephant Pass and Pallai are done up. But the stretch beyond Pallai up to Chavakachcheri is still in a dilapidated condition. However a fair length of the road between Chavakachcheri and Jaffna has been newly done up. It took nearly two hours by an Austin Farina car to reach Jaffna from the Muhamalai "check point" - a distance of 30 kilometres. In all I would say that the work is going at snail speed.

It is worth mentioning that all the contractors who have been given this work come from the south. The reason being that, the contractors from the North are not qualified to undertake such a costly job. The Sri Lankan government has introduced a system by which the contractors are classified under nine different categories starting from 1 to 9. Nine is the lowest. Those in the ninth category can take jobs up to Rs.50,000.00. As the numbering goes down the requirements become harder. As it gets closer to ONE the contractors have to show prove that, they have in their employ certain number of both skilled and technically qualified personnel and specified types and number of machinery. They should also show proof that they had undertaken large contracts during the past five years. The North and the East was ravaged by the war for over two decades and there are hardly any machinery left worth mentioning. One could only spot some old Morris Minor and A-40 cars and most of them too !running on Kerosene belching a lot of smoke polluting the area. How could we expect to see Bulldozers, Earth Movers, Diggers, Tippers, etc. The only new machinery's worth mentioning are the few Massy Ferguson tractors and Land Masters owned by some farmers.

But I was impressed to see the speed with which the road between Paranthan and Mullaitivu is progressing. It was completely rugged and potty and covered with red gravel a few months back. It was making the area awfully dusty. Every time a vehicle drove past people covered their nostrils with whatever they had - sari, shawl or even a handkerchief. The grass on the ground and the leaves on the trees along this road are red in colour because of the dust from the gravel. The road work on this strip commenced somewhere in early June and by the end of September the entire distance of 40 km or at least over 95% from Paranthan to Puthukudiyiruppu was brought under tarmac. But I should mention that the type or the method of laying this road differed very much from that on the A-9 road where stones are being laid first and steamroller is run over before the asphalt is poured on it. But in the case of the road between Paranthan and Mullaitievu only gravel is spread for a thickness of approximately 6 inches, watered and the steamroller is run over it before the asphalt is put on it. When I saw for the first time the first layer of asphalt being poured, I was flabbergasted to see the workers pouring the asphalt barefooted. I pulled up my vehicle to a side to have my doubts cleared. I was told that the first layer of asphalt is an unheated watery substance. The several layers of asphalt poured subsequently are the normal asphalt that we all are used to. Then of course the do have gunny bag wrapped round their feet. I am not an engineer to pass judgement on the longevity of this type of road. An engineer in charge of this road work assured me that it should last at least a few years. I hope and pray he is right. It is also noteworthy that almost all the workers involved in this project are from the local population.

Another impressive progress that I noticed was the production of paddy has gone up almost two folds in the past twenty-five years. In the past the average yield per acre was around 15 bags or 45 bushels. Now they are getting a yield around 40 bags. This is mainly because highbred varieties are in use as seed paddy. The most dominating one is a particular variety of Samba. This is smaller in size and the rice is white in colour. The paddy is no more sold in Bushels as in the past. Instead it is sold by weight. The Samba being small in size allows less air space in the bag hence the weight of a single bag is more thus fetching a higher price. But unfortunately I noticed that the price of paddy has dropped during the past year. I was told that bag of paddy fetched nearly Rs.1000.00 last year. But this has dropped down to less than Rs.600.00 a bag in September this year. The reasons attributed to this situation are the increase in the production of paddy and the government continuing to import rice from overseas. The L.T.T.E. which imposed a tax on the transport (or is it export) of paddy or rice outside the L.T.T.E. controlled areas has lifted this tax and have fixed a minimum price of Rs.650.00 for every bag of paddy. The cost of production/cultivation of paddy has gone up in leaps and bounds. For example one has to pay Rs.4,000.00 to harvest an acre of paddy. Shaving of the bund, fertilising, weeding, spraying insecticides and weed-killers are also quite expensive. The wages for one day's labour are between Rs. 250.00 and Rs. 300.00 - and that too if you can find one. If the cost of cultivation continues to rise and the price falls or stagnates at low levels as it is now, I am afraid that many farmers may give up paddy cultivation.

Now the increased local production and the import of rice have caused the supply to exceed the demand. This is causing a glut in the market. The co-operative societies, and the farmers' organisations should raise this issue with the government authorities and bring about a ban on the import of rice if the farmers and the paddy cultivation were to prosper in the future.

When I visited Vanni for the first time in September 2002, there was only one decent place to stay overnight. And that was the A-9 Lodge as it was called then. It is now renamed as 1-9 Lodge. It is situated on the Kandy Road in Kilinochchi. When you drive into Kilinochchi from Murukandy it is on your left hand. In case you are taking the air-conditioned buses from Colombo, just tell the bus driver and he will drop you in front of the Lodge. Last year there was only lodging provided and you had to drop into a hotel nearby for your food or even for a cup of tea or coffee. But now this has expanded beyond my expectations. A restaurant is attached to this recently and I felt honoured when I was invited for its opening ceremony in July this year. When I walked into the area where the restaurant is situated I felt as if I was either in Hawaii or in any of the tourists resorts of the Spanish islands like Tenerife, Lanzerota or Majorca.

They have erected a beautiful fountain with a rock-like structure in the centre. This is surrounded by small circular huts, which have beautifully thatched roofs. The sound of the water from the fountain running down the rocky structure relaxes and soothes your nerves. Once you have settled in the comfortable chairs provided you could order the food of your choice. While waiting for your food to be prepared and served you may order a whisky, brandy, gin or any alcohol of your choice. The food is excellent, but remember to inform them whether you want it to be mild, medium hot or really hot. I preferred the last and I did not regret it. They serve several types of soups to start with. Of the different types that I have tasted I loved the chicken, which was extremely good.

I would recommend anyone to call for a piece of lime and put a few drops on it. Finally you may end up with a chocolate ice-cream, which I thought was their best. Their fruit salad with an ice-cream ball on it is no second to it. The rates for their rooms start from Rs.750.00 per night. A second bed for a third person will be provided for an additional sum.

One could call them in advance and book a room or rooms for the days you intend to stay there. Their telephone number is 00 94 7134 5629. Their postal address is 1-9 Lodge, Kandy Road, Kilinochchi, Sri Lanka. One Mr.Selvavinayagam is the manager, who is running it so efficiently.

There is one more hotel that has come up recently. It is called the Ilamthenral. Here too as with the 1-9 Lodge there is both board and lodging available. Their charges a slightly less than the 1-9 Lodge. You could get a room from Rs.500.00 onwards. This too is almost on the Kandy Road, but situated on an off road called Old Station Road - only 50 metres from the Kandy Road. Unfortunately they did not have a telephone while I was there. But they were hoping to get one soon. Their postal address is Ilamthenral, Old Station Road, Kilinochchi, Sri Lanka. They too serve alcoholic beverages in their upstairs. I have very often had my meals there. I can recommend them without any reservations.

In addition to these two hotels there are a few cheap places where one could get accommodation. But I could not vouch for their cleanliness or hygiene.

The only negative aspect in almost in all the hotels are that they use too much of oil in their food. I do not know whether I am over reacting because I am a heart patient but my wife too was of the same opinion. Everybody uses coconut milk and coconut oil very lavishly. Even my friends who invited us for dinner to their homes served us very tasty meals but we were able to note the abundance of the oil in their dishes. Even the rice is oily. It has become a fashion I think to serve fried rice with fried prawns and mixed vegetables in it. But I do admit that they tasted great. But again little bit of oily food is not going to kill us anyway. So go for it.